IFMGA Certified Mountain Guide, Leads private expeditions to Alaska, Lower 48, Europe and South America, Photographer, Filmmaker, Skier, Climber, Alpinist, and Oreo cookie connoisseur. Enjoys taking his clients to their physical max and returning safely with some amazing photos of the entire process.
I started guiding in 2001. Since then I have climbed and guided all over the world, with specific experience in Alaska, Washington State, and South America. The Tetons are now home and I couldn't be happier. The Tetons offer so much to so many. Here I am on the summit of Teewinot with the Grand Teton in the background. This might be one of the best views in the Range.
My favorite objective to guide is called the Grand Traverse. You cover all the major peaks in the range, climbing 13,000+ vertical feet (3960 m) over 15 miles. I took this photo at our first bivy site, on the North Side of the Grand Teton. Light is right so we can move fast and complete this amazing objective. It's a real feather in the hat of those that finish it. My film of climbing the first half with my wife, Janelle Smiley.
Skiing is my other passion. Here I am skiing an amazing line called, Apocalypse. It has it all, rappels, steep terrain, ice walls and no fall skiing. One of the Tetons gems that can be guided for skiers who bring a high level of skill and matching ambition. This is one side of the spectrum. I take people ski touring on much easier objectives as well. Another big objective is skiing the Grand Teton. Here is a video I shot and edited of that experience.
Ice climbing is another passion. When the skiing is bad the ice climbing is generally really good and vise versa. Here I am climbing one of the many great lines in Cody, WY. The ice is best in this area Dec-Feb.
The Cordillera Blanca of Peru is another favorite. I took this photo while belaying two clients one pitch from the summit of Alpamayo (19,511ft / 5,947m). This type of multi-tasking while multi-pitching is right in my wheel house. I love hauling my 4 pound DSLR camera to get actions shots like this of my clients.
This photo was taken by fellow IFMGA guide Jed Porter in Peru as well. My wife, Jed and I climbed this very steep mountain and then did a first descent off Huandoy East (6001 m). Combining skiing and technical climbing is so amazing. I am eager to return.
In 2010 my wife and I started a huge project we call, Committed. We are trying to be the first people to climb all of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. To date we have climbed 46 of the routes, and hope to be done by next year. Several sponsors help us with this effort such as Gore-Tex, Arc'Teryx, La Sportiva & Kaenon. I took this shot of our high camp on the Mooses Tooth in Alaska. We failed to reach the summit on this attempt.
Three years later we returned with more skill and better snow conditions and were successful. My wife took this photo of me leading the crux pitch. It was "full value" alpine climbing. Film of the trip.
Fall 2015 I returned to Yosemite and climbed the Nose Route on El Capitan in less than a day. 20:50 hr:min to be exact. It was amazing to cover so much beautiful rock in a short time. Now I'm planning ways to knock hours off that time. This photo was taken by Tom Evans from the Valley floor with an 800mm lens. I took a 25 foot (7.6m) leader fall on this pitch when a very thin piece of pro blew out. My film of the Nose.
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