Reaching the Summit of a major Teton peak in winter requires a combination of stamina, mountaineering skills and plain old luck. The reward comes in the form of an on-the-edge experience without the crowds of summer, on routes that probably aren’t climbed more than once a season.
Winter peak ascents are for experienced climbers only. Conditions may dictate the use of ice as well as rock gear. Approaches and descents are best done on skis and high avalanche hazard may require last minute changes in routes or dates. Most technical winter ascents in the Tetons require at least two days. The Grand Teton climb usually requires three days.
MIDDLE or SOUTH TETON: These easiest of the high peaks are usually approached from a camp in Garnet Canyon which is reached on day one. The second day brings steep hard snow climbing as well as the long descent to the valley.
BUCK MOUNTAIN: The northeast ridge of this southernmost of the high peaks is an Alaskan-style knife-edge in winter with spectacular exposure.
CLOUDVEIL DOME OR NEZ PERCE: Often more rock than snow or ice, these fourth-class routes of summer become serious climbs in winter conditions.
THE GRAND TETON: While this peak is usually everyone’s first choice for a winter prize, it’s greater difficulty and vertical relief demand experience in a variety of conditions as well as exceptional fitness. The frigid and rime-caked Owen-Spalding route is the “standard” in winter.
WIND RIVER RANGE: Expedition style trips into the Wind River Range are also available for the experienced winter mountaineer.
Please call to discuss these and other options.
Please call to discuss options.