The magnificent knife-edge of Irene’s Arete soars above the Meadows, a popular camping area and lunch stop for those headed for the Grand Teton. Many Teton climbers would say that Irene’s is the best rock climbing route in the Tetons. The route offers six or more pitches all with several difficult variations.
Open Book ascends a massive dihedral on the south face of Disappointment Peak, above Garnet Canyon, about an hour and above the Lupine Meadows trailhead. Its seven pitches are steep, hard, and intimidating. Overhangs, cracks of all sizes and varieties, under-clings, laybacks, and serious exposure are the order of the day, and retreat is difficult.
The Snaz is the classic hard Teton rock climb, and the local standard for anyone wishing to establish their credentials as a 5.10 climber. The route ascends nine pitches of a steep face at the center of massive Cathedral Rock, a buttress at the entrance of Death Canyon. The Snaz has it all.
DIHEDRAL OF HORRORS
A moderate hike takes you up Death Canyon to the base of a large dihedral corner system. Steep crack climbing and stemming leads up great rock to a sloping belay below a huge “diamond” roof. An incredibly airy and exposed 5.6 traverse under the roof brings you to the top of the buttress for stunning views across Death Canyon. The route is challenging, with exposed stemming and difficult moves over smooth rock broken only by small cracks and micro edges.
Please call our office to discuss these and other options.